Conflict zones for Dummies

We left Beirut this morning in two small buses, accompanied by one police car. Driving through the south of the city to get to the highway, I spot buildings with pockmarked walls from bullet marks. Some have big blacks gaps, as if a large animal passed by, taking greedy bites out of the stone. Only later I’m told this area of Beirut is Hezbollah territory. I’m propped up on a fold-out seat in the aisle of the bus. On either side of

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